Beadmaking Studio Setup

This page contains tips for setting up your beadmaking studio.  I've set up about 3 now and helped numerous students get theirs up and running so maybe this will help you a little bit.  If you have questions please contact me.  Currently the best way to contact me is through my old store contact link...(I'm in the process of moving my online bead store to a different server but right now everything is still up and running as of July 2012)

Contact Me form at sylcraft.com. Thanks and good luck!   FLAME ON !

FIRST: SET UP YOUR LAMPWORK BEAD STUDIO

WHERE to set up your lampwork glass beadmaking studio?

You will need to make sure that where you choose to do your lampwork beads that you have good ventilation.  Most glass when heated gives off noxious fumes so ventilation is a must for your health.  You also need a place that you can place the tanks safely. Some people put them in the same room in a cart nearby and others (myself) run the hose for the gas (propane) out the window or through the wall. You might also want to *check with local code to make sure you are not violating any laws by doing so. You will save yourself a lot of grief by doing so.  *Check with your insurance company and make sure that if something goes wrong, God forbid, that you will be covered for damages.

You will need the following for a set up:

Torch and hoses (see below)

Quick Connects are helpful. They allow you to disconnect quickly in case of a problem or to change your setup if needed without unscrewing all the connections each time.

Mandrels to wind the beads on

Tools to push the glass and shape it-usually some sort of graphite tool available from Arrow springs or other supply (see below)

Table that is fire resistant. I use a wood table but have put a sheet of aluminum on top of the table to protect it from hot glass.

Oxygen tank or oxygen concentrator (see below)

Glass to heat. Rods are preferable and you can usually start with an assortment pack from the glass suppliers.

Table top kiln or other kiln. Ceramic will work as well but save your pennies and get a digital contoller as soon as you can. I spent MANY nights up and down trying to regulate my kiln since it cooled too fast to allow it to go on it's own.  A digital controller is built into some kilns and it is the most economical way to do it unless you already have a ceramic kiln and then you will need to order one with a connection that fits your kiln.  Not all kilns are standard plugs...my large kiln is an old Paragon and the plug for it is not standard.  They had to equip my second digital controller with a plug that worked for me.  

Some torch choices and general costs (costs vary by supplier so do your homework)

Hot Head: Good starting torch that needs no oxygen tank.  Slow to work glass as it is not as hot. Uses Mapp gas that you can purchase over the counter at most hardware stores.  About $40-50.00

Minor Burner by Nortel: Good for most soft glass bead making applications. Surface Mix torch.   About $190

 Mega Minor Burner by Nortel: Hotter than the minor and will do some borosilicate (pyrex).  About $240-$250

Mid Range Burner by Nortel: Wider flame-has 22 ports instead of the 7 that Minor and Mega Minor have. Melts glass faster. About $270-280.00

These are the most common torches for glass beadmaking however the torches by Glass Torch technologies are very good torches.  Check out these torches and more at www.arrowsprings.com/html/torches.html

Torches vary in price from $185 to $500 depending on what application you use them for.  I prefer the surface mix torches myself and there is a good selection of them out there now.

REGULATORS: You will need to by the hoses/regulators separately unless you buy a torch package which is more expensive than the costs above.  

FLASH BACK ARRESTORS: YOU NEED THESE !!  For your own safety as this keeps gas from flashing back into the tanks and causing explosion or fire.  

QUICK CONNECTS: These are nice especially if there is a problem you can just disconnect the torch or hoses. Optional.

BEAD RELEASE: You need bead release to get the bead off the mandrel. I use the Flame dry bead release from Franz glass in Olympia.  

Mandrels: I buy mine and cut them myself.  Try your local welding place. Ask for 316L steel welding rods. Most common size is 1/16inch, 3/32nd inch, and 1/8 inch

TOOLS:

Old knife—check the dollar store  ;-)

Dental tools for pulling or pushing glass.

Marver-usually a graphite pad of some sort. Comes in different widths.

Rod Rest.  Nice to have so you can lay the glass down on it until it cools so it’s not resting on the bench.

Serrated pliers for pinching, pulling etc. Jewelry or hardware store. Hardware store is cheaper (usually).

Steel plate to go under the torch to catch the stray glass that might drop.

Propane tank and regulators.

Some places to buy supplies:

Just do an internet search on these companies—their websites will pop up for you.

Arrow Springs

Glasscrafters

Franz Glass

Sundance glass

Bullseye Glass

SECOND: ANNEAL YOUR FINISHED LAMPWORK GLASS BEADS

How to Anneal your beads.

Annealing is a process that will relieve the stress in the glass.  This can be accomplished by holding them at a certain temperature and then slowly cooling them down.  

Moretti or soft glass is held at around 968 degrees.  I let my beads soak after putting them in the kiln hot from the torch for at least and hour but usually for about 2-3 hours if I have big beads or beads with large and small parts on them.  The average is about 1:40 minutes.

The schedule:

(Empty Kiln)

Ramp up to 968 degrees and hold there while you add your new creations.  

Hold for about 1:40 minutes after you are done for the day or longer if you wish.  Longer does not hurt anything!

Set kiln to reduce temperature at about 5 degrees per minute until it reaches a temperature of about 500 degrees.

I also usually put a hold in there about about 800 degrees for 5 minutes just to make sure things don’t cool too fast.  That is up to you.

At 500 degrees I have the kiln turn off if your kiln doesn’t cool too fast.   A large ceramic kiln will hold the heat a long time so it is very safe to turn off at that temp.  A small bead kiln does not hold heat well so it will cool much faster.  Usually not a problem.

After kiln annealing take your beads off the rods by soaking in a cup of water, removing the outer bead release and then turning and pulling on the bead until it comes off the rod.  Clean the hole with a bead reamer with a diamond bit or a dremel tool on low speed with the diamond bit.  Enjoy!